Applebee's

Borough Market, London

Applebee’s has held its spot in Borough Market for 25 years: an achievement in a city that moves fast and forgets quickly. Its recent glow-up brings a lighter, brighter energy without losing the quiet assurance of a place that knows exactly what it’s doing. Frankie van Loo’s menu gives pride of place to the charcoal grill, although the smaller plates steal plenty of attention: sourdough with sea-herb butter is impossibly creamy; taramosalata with roast onion crisps is smoky and saline; wild sea bass ceviche balancestrawberry sweetness with a flicker of chilli heat; while scallops roasted in three butters deliver pure, shell-odecadence. Mains keep standards high – Cornish hake on potato rosti, or whole Dover sole with triple-cooked chips. Fun cocktails and a generous by-the-glass wine list make a strong case for a return visit.

Words by Lauren Hoffman. Photography by Matthew Hague. applebeesfish.com