Ardor

When the ex-head chef of Le Manoir goes solo, even if it’s in the wilds of Cornwall – albeit in one of its prettiest and most popular seaside towns, St Ives – expectation is going to be high. But Dorian Janmaat’s Ardor is special, and it’s special because he produces big flavours with everything he does, be it the brandy- basted chickens from the rotisserie; the softly sweet lamb rump bathed in garlicky butter; or the plump mussels with a lobster cream. There’s a sharing concept here, because he loves the Mediterranean but also because you’re going to want loved ones to share the flavours the chef creates. He has that Blanc-like obsession with maximising flavour along with a light touch that doesn’t over-complicate and, a rarity in these parts, he focuses on excellent service too. Go there before everyone else does.

This article was taken from the Christmas 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.