Asia de Cuba

45 St Martin's Lane, London

When Asia de Cuba announced its refit, it brought a groan from all the sharing-plate suspicious, Americana-apathetic diners all but fed up of ill-conceived fusion cuisine.But the flagship restaurant of St Martins Lane hotel – while featuring all of the above– comes with genuine pedigree. ‘Concept chef’ Luis Pous’s plates are delicious and worthy of the effort. Ceviche is the ideal, palate-awakening way to start, with the red snapper with Thai chilli, red onion, coriander and plantain. A string of small plates almost too good to share are best ordered in threes: crispy octopus al ajillo with vegetable escabeche, lychee and garlic chips; casabe cakes with barbecue pork and onion mojo; and spring rolls with slow-braised short rib are must-haves. The main plates are just that, don’t be tempted to over order (this is Americana done right, after all), so pick the mojo duck confit with brown rice and Thai basil and leave room for the Cuban classic, tres leches de chocolate with Szechuan pepper – ultra sweet and tongue-tinglingly moreish.