Auberge du Lac

Brocket Hall, Welwyn, Hertfordshire

With a history more chequered than the flag that used to signal the end of the races when Lord Brocket would speed Ferraris around the estate, Auberge du Lac has been the scene for sordid society parties for centuries. Now, it’s a French-leaning restaurant using the ultimate in British produce and one of the best in the country. There’s no point in ordering anything but the tasting menu. A velvet-smooth butternut soup amuse bouche with a depth of flavour that lets the single ingredient shine, sets the tone for Marcus McGuinness’ menu. The star players are a salad of Devon crab with pear and sweet and sour sauce, and line-caught sea bass with a potato and parsnip ‘risotto’, although arguably the simplest course is the most delicious: spiced Greek yoghurt with blood orange jam. It’s very much in line with the Food and Travel philosophy that if you start with the very best produce, it’s hard to go wrong. Make a weekend of it, too. The estate’s hotel has 46 well-appointed bedrooms and one of the best golf courses in the South East. MS. 01707 368888.