Bentley’s Sea Grill

11-15 Swallow St, Mayfair

Well, the decor is Harrods, what with it being in the food halls and all. The marble tops are perfectly nice as are the rest of the furnishings but these are not what draw you to Richard Corrigan’s empire. With the Galvins also opening up shop, Harrods has taken lessons from the Thomas Keller experiment and realised that people want names, and in Corrigan they’ve certainly got one – a better ambassador for quality seafood you’ll struggle to find. His menu draws from his Swallow Street bar and grill so, naturally, we start with oysters – two each of garlic, Rockefeller and Vietnamese for £22. The latter are by far the tastiest with crispy shallots, ginger and chilli giving them a sweet-spicy edge. For mains, you choose from a ‘Bentley’s Classic’ menu, so we opted for fish and chips, lobster bisque and Corrigan’s famous royal fish pie with meaty chunks of haddock, scallop, lobster and tiger prawn beneath a layer of creamy potato. The pie is good, but not as good as the simple things they do incredibly well here – such as Dover sole or wild sea bass from the grill. Dessert options include chocolate mousse or crème brûlée – torched at the bar. AM. bentleys.org/