Berenjak Soho

27 Romilly Street, London, W1D 5AL

PERSIAN PANACHE

One thing to know about Berenjak Soho: book ahead or be prepared to wait. Getting a table takes a little effort (read: patience) but it’s worth it once you taste the litany of Persian deliciousness that emerges from the open kitchen. There’s no bad choice here; best go as a gang so you can share meze options for a bite of everything. Channelling the spirit and aesthetics of Tehran’s hole-in- the-wall kebab joints, the menu is fuss-free, fragrant and flavoursome. Think Middle Eastern stalwarts using excellent British produce. Examples? Succulent jujeh – lemon, tomato and saffron-laced chicken kebabs, tzatziki-like mast o khiar dip with green raisins, best mopped up with clay-baked sourdough flatbread, and rice with a moreish crisp base. Bigger plates include lamb stew with dried lime. Wash it all down with gin-spiked sharbat for the win.

Words by Blossom Green.

This Article was taken from the October 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.