The Zetter

86-88 Clerkenwell Rd, St John's Square, London

It was with great cheer that we heard Bruno Loubet had boomeranged back to London after eight years in Australia. The French-born chef is now back behind the stove at Bistrot Bruno Loubet in Clerkenwell’s trendy Zetter hotel. True to form – he won a Michelin star at Four Seasons, Inn on the Park, then wowed diners in Soho’s The Zetter with his modern bistro cooking – his food was as good as I remembered. There was little evidence of an Aussie influence in the gutsy menu of distinctive Zetter-style dishes, including a ‘revised’ Lyonnaise salad with breaded pig’s trotter fingers, poached egg and thin strips of crispy pig’s ear, and the rich but delicious Mauricette snails and meatballs with royale de champignons, an intense mushroom mousse. Next up the seared tuna with lardo di Colonnata and green apple purée was fresh and flavourful. Mains delivered on all levels: confit of lamb shoulder with white beans, preserved lemon and green harissa was tender and robust, while the English rose veal quite literally melted in the mouth. The only quibble was the desserts, both the Valrhona chocolate tartlet and the brioche, crème fraîche and rhubarb tart were heavenly but flavoured with orange, despite no mention of this on the menu. With a solid wine list (strongly south-west France influenced), top-notch service and rustic-chic interior, this is a slick set up. Let’s hope Zetter stays put.

St John’s Square, 86-88 Clerkenwell Road, London EC1M 5RJ (020 7324 4455; thezetter.com)