Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

21A Foley St, London

Two words: the crab. Twenty pounds buys you a whole, man-sized one, with juicy flecks of perfectly cooked claw – its other bits transformed into a velvety spread for troughs of bread. This Fitzrovia joint calls itself a seafood shack and, while the elbow room is comparable, the vibe and the preparation of its food is a cut above – from button-cute oysters, with chunks of chorizo, spinach and lemon purée, to the latest haul of Cornish hake. Wash it all down with a Bonnie Mary, the house version of a Caesar featuring home-made Clamato juice and a pristine oyster. AM. 020 7436 0921, bonniegull.com