Brasserie Chavot

41 Conduit St, London

As fashions and wallets shun intricate, expensive tasting menus, so we see the revival of the brasserie. Once the preserve of faux French chains serving up vapid croques monsieurs, quality renditions are emerging. Raymond Blanc has built such a stable, and now one of his alumni has launched his own. Eric Chavot honed his reputation, and earned two Michelin stars, at The Capital in Knightsbridge. Now he has set up at The Westbury hotel, with a more informal approach but no less impressive food. Impeccably sourced starters are followed by a dozen mains, nearly all under £20, rendered with maximum flair but minimum fuss. Snails come with meatballs in a rich bourguignon; a daube of beef flakes off the fork; duck à l’orange is enhanced by lusciously caramalised endive. The room is informal but smart, with relaxed, confident service. A minor gripe is the wine. The list is decent, but could benefit from more informed service. Ultimately though, this is authentic food, done supremely well at a very reasonable price. It’s exactly what London needs. GW 020 7183 6425