Brasserie Zédel

20 Sherwood St, London

We’re often told that we live in tough times – although I reckon plagues, war and the pre-sanitation era were probably worse than our current times of penny-pinching austerity – so it’s refreshing to see a place that can offer a three-course prix fixe for an astonishing £11.25. In central London too. The fact that Brasserie Zédel does so in such grand, 1920s Parisian-style (I have to admit my reference points are old episodes of Poirot), is much to the credit of Chris Corbin and Jeremy King – the men behind The Wolseley and The Delauney. Set in what was once a ballroom when it was originally built 100 years or so ago – but more recently known as the beloved 90s celeb-haunt Atlantic Bar & Grill – the menu here is not only incredibly reasonable (starters from £2.25, mains from £7.50) but delicious. It’s extensive too, covering classic French (meaty snails in parsley butter) or retro English (prawn cocktail with Marie-Rose sauce), meat-fests such as coucroute alsaciene (sauerkraut, smoked pork belly and frankfurter) and old favourites such as the baba au rhum (which, to be honest, could’ve done with a bit more oomph). A credit-crunching hit. AM.