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Tel Aviv, Israel
In Israel’s culinary capital, restaurants open
and shut within the blink of a swaying palm.
Reaching the ripe age of 25 is no mean feat in
any city, but reaching the milestone in Tel Aviv
is practically unheard of. Celebrating its
landmark birthday this year, CoffeeBar (est.
1994) is neither a coffee shop nor a cocktail
bar, as its misleading name suggests. Rather,
it’s a neighbourhood institution inspired by the
bustle, comforting cuisine and loyal following of
Paris’s cafés and Italy’s cosy trattorias. Four
sprawling rooms, a buzzy bar and expansive
outdoor porch – ideal for sundowners on a
warm evening – feature decor that borrows
from bistros and brasseries, with dark wood,
huge vases of flowers and chalk boards
scrawled with the day’s specials. The menu
teases with Israeli ingredients, but largely
leans towards an Italian edge. We fall in line,
ordering pizza bianca to start, followed by lamb
ragù pappardelle laced with chilli and Pecorino
Romano. A crisp cannoli exploding with ricotta
and chocolate orange rounds things off. Along
with another round of Aperols... Oh, to be 25
again.
Words by Blossom Green.
00 972 3 688 9696. coffeebar.co.il
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