Ella Canta

London

This month sees a new Frida Kahlo exhibition at London’s V&A – and with the buzz over what amounts to a revolution in modern Mexican dining reaching fever pitch – it seemed the perfect time to linger over the work of another flamboyant Mexican artist, Martha Ortiz, at the chef’s glittering Park Lane restaurant. Starting in the gilt and terracotta-hued bar, we order the Yu-ka t’ann, a heady blend of avocado, honey-washed Patron Silver Tequila, Galliano and mandarin peel-infused agave syrup. Suddenly, Mexico City doesn’t feel so far away. In the cactus-studded dining room, a guacamole starter arrives with a golden grasshopper atop, which, with one satisfying crunch, conjures scenes of dusty, sun-warmed fields. The wizardry doesn’t stop here: Aztec soup, octopus with smoked chilli, slow-roasted pork with achiote, and duck with black mole are all revelatory, complemented by a Discreto Encanto red. After a dessert of cinnamon-sugared churros, and a masterclass from the brilliant staff in all things tequila and mezcal, we leave happy, hearts filled with the song of Mexico. ¡Viva la revolución! ¡Viva Ella Canta!