J. Sheekey

28-32 St Martin's Ct, London WC2N 4AL

The line of decadence and quality is a fine one to tread. Sure, you want to be treated well, eat tasty food and not feel rushed but as soon as service becomes overbearing, you’re left feeling an awkward sense of imposition. J. Sheekey manages that balance perfectly. It’s been practising the art of service since the 1890s and in that time has served pretty much every silver screen and music hero you could name - the black-and-white photographs of famous diners that line the walls are a reminder of its inner-circle status. When it opened, it was owned by a seafood merchant who served quality oysters and shellfish, and little has changed. Its terrace has recently been extended, one of the few alfresco dining spots in this part of town, and Dungarvan, Lindisfarne or Morcambe Bay oysters are the best way to enjoy it. Follow them with grilled fish – herb-roasted sea bream is excellent – or marinated queenie scallops with chips. Though if you really want to feel like a rock star, the fruit de mer platter has genuine theatre. Come for the fish and stay for the people-watching.