Joe Allen

13 Exeter St, London

When it comes to eating among the bright lights of theatreland, Joe Allen is the restaurant equivalent of Les Misérables – a greater classic, it is hard to find. A transatlantic import, the original opened in New York in 1965, and thanks to its popularity with local actors (apparently the eponymous founder had a rather generous attitude towards poorly paid performers) the business expanded across the pond and a London branch was born in 1977. Now as much a fixture of the capital’s theatre scene as Shaftesbury Avenue, everyone who’s anyone in the West End has dined here – and still does; tables are packed late into the night, long after the curtains have fallen, with thespians, critics and theatre types. This is the original American eaterie in the city; decades before queueing for greasy gourmet burgers or barbecued ribs at no-reservations joints became the norm, Joe Allen was delivering homely all-American meals in an atmospheric basement a mere dozen paces from Covent Garden market. Its entrance is discreet – a small plaque outside, no bells and whistles.

The restaurant, which sprawls over two rooms, joined by a bar area, has an undeniable element of theatricality: the lighting is dim, the walls cluttered with posters and signed portraits. Diners in twos sit elbow to elbow in wooden chairs, many facing outward in a way that positively encourages people-watching. Of course, seeing who’s dining is part of the fun. Most days you’ll encounter all sorts, be it the pre-show-going public to media types, back-up dancers to West End stars. They gossip over plates of eggs Benedict or chili con carne, served unpretentiously on white paper tablecloths in industrial white china. The food, while peppered with international references, includes several American classics, with authentic portion sizes. Choices are simple, eclectic and refreshingly untrendy: a creamy Caesar salad, laced with chunky croutons; iceberg lettuce with blue cheese dressing; guacamole and tortilla chips. Ribs are sticky, sweet and meaty. The burgers, once a ‘secret’ off-menu offering for regulars in the know, have become a somewhat iconic (and far from secret) speciality. And who can pass up a nice thick wedge of that stateside favourite, pecan pie, for dessert? AEM. 020 7836 0651, joeallen.co.uk