Joe Allen

Covent Garden

As the ‘West End’s Canteen’ raises the curtain on a new era, we find out that it’s worthy of an encore

There was outcry from regulars when it was revealed that Theatreland institution Joe Allen was to be uprooted from its Exeter Street home to make way for Robert De Niro’s new boutique hotel, The Wellington. Since 1977 the beloved American brasserie has been drawing in luvvies, who came for diner classics done with panache and stayed for the air kisses that followed. This was the place to see and be seen in the Eighties and Nineties and as curtains fell across town, jobbing thesps and A-listers alike skipped off to its convivial dining room for post-show libations and an excellent Caesar salad. Its nickname, the West End’s Canteen, since stuck.

It all started in 1965, when the eponymous Mr Allen launched the original site on New York’s 46th Street. Rip-roaring good times were a given and Allen recreated this vibe in the West End. Pianist Jimmy Hardwick tinkled the ivories and raised spirits while guests raised their glasses. Many of the London staff have been in situ for more than 20 years – and they’re not all out-of-work actors – both Jeremy King (of The Wolseley) and Polpo’s Russell Norman cut their teeth here.

Unperturbed by the need to relocate, current owners Tim Healy and Lawrence Hartley embarked upon a brick-by-brick replica of the dining room a stone’s throw away. The new Joe’s made its debut in September; while it’s no longer a basement haunt, the red brick, paparazzi-snaps and theatre paraphernalia – even the rickety chairs – stand as they always have. But did it take its soul with it? Our visit falls on a chilly Tuesday night, and as the curtain lifts expectations are high. The menu is a roll call of classic Americana. Things you really want to eat: steaks, lobster rolls, hot dogs with hickory mustard, and glazed ribs. Chicken parmigiana transports us to Little Italy, but it’s the off-menu JA burger that we are most keen to try. Known only to those who know, the stalwart of American dining was left off the original menu to limit any association with the first McDonald’s that hit Britain just before Joe’s. It is succulent, savoury goodness made with high-grade beef. When dessert is served alongside one of its classic cocktails and the atmosphere cranks up, it’s clear one of London’s oldest chums is still breaking a leg.