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Koyn Thai
England
FIT FOR A KINGDOMA prawn that’s roughly the size of a lobster demands
centre stage, and the juicy meat bathed in a panang
curry might just be the best thing you eat this year, such
is the depth of quality at Koyn Thai. But then it’s
competing with some of its stable mates, like those
chubby escargots smothered in a gravy-like green chilli
and basil sauce, or the spicy, sweet and fresh flavours
you get from every mouthful of the green papaya salad,
with its mouth-tingling chilli tamarind dressing. Koyn
Thai may share space with the Japanese Koyn in Mayfair,
but it’s no after thought: this is a standalone restaurant
with its own distinct flavours, sourced from the four
corners of the Thai kingdom and brought together by
the brilliant Kiwi chef Rhys Cattermoul. A 12-hour lamb
shank massaman curry is rich but well balanced enough
to leave you wanting more.
Words by Alex Mead.
This review was taken from the August/September 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.