Kricket

49 Brixton Station Rd, London

Once you’ve fought your way past the hipsters that have slouched their way to Brixton’s Pop (a township of freight containers housing suitably modish pop- up restaurants), you’re rewarded with Indian street food of the highest order. There’s a truncated, daily-changing menu on which standouts for us were vindaloo bavette, the cheap cut cooked tender with heavy spicing and green chilli paste that blows your socks off; KFC (Keralan fried chicken), crisply battered and served with pickled mooli to cut through the fat; and samphire pakora, with wild garlic mayonnaise. MS. kricket.co.uk