Kricket

Soho

Chef Will Bowlby’s deep understanding of Indian cooking belies his middle-class upbringing in Kent. The marrying of carefully sourced British ingredients with the flavours of Mumbai has proved so successful, his Brixton pop-up evolved into a permanent restaurant earlier this year. The focus is still on punchy small plates, exotic cocktails and a cool, cosmopolitan vibe. Try chicken in crispy batter with well-flavoured curry-leaf mayo, naan bread dripping with bone-marrow butter, and bhel puri – puffed rice with yoghurt punctuated by a drizzle of sweet and sour tamarind.