Malling & Schmidt

Jægergårdsgade 81, AARHUS C, Denmark

Thorsten Schmidt’s white villa-cum-restaurant on the outskirts of Denmark’s second city might not have attracted the same attention as Copenhagen’s Noma, but he produces food as impressive as you’d taste in any multi-Michelinstarred venue. For years Schmidt (Malling is his sommelier wife), one of the pioneers of ‘new Nordic cuisine’, produced refined, inspired tasting menus fusing local produce with all manner of modern culinary pyrotechnics. Then, half a year ago, he closed his restaurant. It’s reopened as two separate concepts: a ‘casual, everyday’ venue – if you eat exceptional food everyday – and an occasionally offered, exquisite, gastronomic experience. Come during the week to feast on marsh lamb with potatoes and local green seaweed in the relaxed setting created by Danish designers Kahler. It’s so laid-back you even help yourself to your own wine from the bar. Or, opt for the once-a-month ‘gasto supreme’ evening, when just 14 diners experience Schmidt’s playful, 20-course tasting menus,
featuring forest cattle roasted over an open fire, Jutland duck soup or oak tree ice cream. Such evenings always sell out – with good reason. AEM. 00 31 20 462 45 62