May Fair Kitchen

The May Fair Hotel, Stratton St, London

Walk across the marble-slathered lobby of The May Fair hotel and you could head for the ostentatious bar, or instead turn left to seek out the cooler hues of this classic dining space. Yes, this is a starched white linen kind of place, but the energy and offering is far from stuffy, and a welcoming warmth comes across from the staff. A glass of vintage Moët to complement oysters whets the appetite while you decide on the main event. Ingredients here are sourced directly from their producers and are showcased on open kitchen counters; their provenance proudly recounted by waiters at a given moment. Simple, fresh dishes include seared salt-coated tuna from the Maldives, or quail’s egg and blue cheese ravioli. Even the heartiest of dishes fired on the grill have a certain cleanness to them; a choice of ‘pig textures’ – four different cuts of pork accompanied by a watercress salad – allows the flavours of the meat to shine, and was considerably lighter than anticipated. For dessert, the clementine cake is a must. BG. 020 7915 3892, mayfairkitchen.co.uk