Mortens Kro

Mølleå 4, Aalborg, Denmark

The tastiest lobster is only to be expected in Aalborg, a town high up in north Denmark where, in the middle of July, the sun hardly sets and the saxophonists in the main square play into the midnight dusk. Lightly eccentric head chef Morten Nielson is a Danish TV celebrity whose inventive Menu Surprise (replete with ‘artistic’ pictures of naked models, vaguely erotic recipes and its very own album of trance music), offers Danish cuisine with an edge. Succulent Læsø lobster tails come with watercress, baby spinach and lobster foam, melting into warm, new Danish potatoes laced with horseradish, elderflower and lemon. Home-smoked monkfish is delicious with a dill and tomato mayonnaise. The roasted summer roebuck, marinated in juniper berries and rosemary and served with rhubarb compote, is only slightly surpassed by pudding – an amazing meringue cake with Danish strawberry sorbet, elderflower foam and crunchy candy floss that’s as pink and crazy as the midnight sun.