Mr Cooper’s House & Garden

The Midland Hotel, Peter St, Manchester

A century-old tree anchors the action at the centre of the ‘patio’ garden of Simon Rogan’s Manchester restaurant. Said tree belonged to Mr Cooper before The Midland Hotel was built, so it stayed put. Aptly, vertical gardens, pots of lavender and olive trees seamlessly bring the outdoors in. ‘Pork scratchings’ are light-as-air nibbles, dipped into pomme purée. It’s a taste bud tantaliser. Waiters are fast and knowledgeable about the dishes. Lovely details do not go unnoticed – delicate slithers of cucumber jazz up Mancunian tap water (or ‘Corporation Pop’ as it’s known up north). Scallops lightly caramelised make for a happy mention too, served with cucumber sambal, jalapeño fritters and tahini dressing. Sticking to his slogan, ‘stay true to your roots…’ Rogan uses the best regional produce: Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire cheddar is highlighted on the menu and is probably what makes the cauliflower cheese taste so good. Citrus-brined sea bass, chorizo cassoulet, with shrimps, kohlrabi and fried bread is a busy plate, but top-drawer. Flapjacks, as Lancastrian as flat caps, come with Turkish delight. RR.