North 44

2537 Yonge Street Toronto, ON

A staple on the Toronto dining scene for decades, and still able to attract the scores of stars that hit Canada’s largest city for the international film festival every September, North 44 is one of the restaurants that has helped define Canadian cuisine. Named after the city’s latitude, celebrity chef-owner Mark McEwan has long since passed on daily cookery duties to a different (self-taught) head chef, but still plays his part in devising menus that include the likes of pan-seared Quebec foie gras, pan-fried quail with maple, and butter-braised Nova Scotia lobster risotto. The selection of oysters, when available, is a must – the Malpeque, shipped in from Prince Edward Island, are delicious, but the Raspberry Point, with their almost sweet finish, are really something special. Like Toronto itself, North 44’s menu is peppered with international influences – tempura rock shrimps with chipotle-yuzu aïoli and crispy lotus chips is a punchy signature dish. As you would expect, there are plenty of good Canadian wines to choose from, by the glass or the bottle. It’s certainly not cheap, but in dining here, you are feasting on a piece of Toronto culinary history. AEM.