Oma

3 Bedale St, London

OMA GOD

With its easy, breezy vibes and Greek-inspired plates, and overlooking a food market, Oma could be on the sun-kissed Mediterranean. Instead, it’s in Borough Market, and with Manteca still topping many people’s must-eat- there-again list, Oma is another hit from David Carter. Naturally, it’s sharing, but done so well even the ‘Greek bagel’ that is the sweet, soft, delicately plump açma verde, or the staple that is houmous, seem to be elevated by whatever happens in that open kitchen. There are skewers of meaty octopus and sausage; rich spanakopita gratin to be scooped up by slabs of flatbread; Greek clay pots of oxtail giouvetsi into which you spoon bone marrow – a rich contrast to the light, citrusy yellowfin tuna, clementine ponzu, crispy garlic. Flavour and atmosphere-wise, it’s got everything.

Words by Alex Mead

This review was taken from the June/July 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.