One O One

Sheraton Park Tower, 101 Knightsbridge, London

It might have the most ostentatious postcode in London (opposite One Hyde Park in Knightsbridge) but step inside and you’ll find underplayed interiors, serene staff and a hushed atmosphere. Chef Pascal Proyart’s love of seafood borders on the fanatic and he does everything he can to ensure it takes centre stage. Much of it comes from Brittany but the wild Cornish red mullet cooked in burgundy was an unusual pairing that worked well. Whipped butter infused with seaweed has a satisfying, briny twang, while king crab leg served on ice is a lesson in letting ingredients speak for themselves.