Brixham, Devon

As the most delicate of Dover soles – simply grilled with little more than a squeeze of lemon and olive oil – arrives at your table on the terrace, beneath you the latest catch is unloaded from the trawler at Brixham’s iconic fish market. The fish at Rockfish almost flops directly from trawler to table – via the grills – such is the unique position of Mitch Tonks’ seafood restaurant as part of England’s biggest fishing port. Not only does Mitch have a long-term partnership with local fish merchants and skippers, but he’s even got his own dayboat to deliver the best catches to the stove. Although part of a mini stable, this is the stand-out and Tonks knows only too well simple is best when it comes to fish. So choose from the best market fish, enjoy bottomless, crisp, fluffy chips and take a glass of Tonnix Branco – the white he created with Mark Hix.

Words by Alex Mead.

This review was taken from the June 2023 issue of Food and Travel.

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