Samuel’s, Swinton Park

Swinton Park Ltd, Swinton Park, Masham, Ripon, North Yorkshire

You’d expect the food to be good at a hotel with its own cookery school and four-acre vegetable garden. But Simon Crannage has taken things to a whole new level at this converted castle, via a modern British take on local, seasonal ingredients. Rabbit, venison and fish are sourced directly from the 20,000- acre surrounding estate, and dishes from slightly further afield are imaginatively treated: smoked eel is paired with artichoke; razor clam with grapefruit, while a Bloody Mary sorbet serves as a palate cleanser. Clever, inventive and immaculately presented in elegant surroundings. GW. 01765 680900