St James's Market, London

Former Nopi head chef Ramael Scully takes the fermenting game to the next level at his eponymous St James restaurant. House-made pickles, relishes and spice mixes line the shelves in an explosion of colour inside the gleaming restaurant, showcased in a menu which includes the likes of crispy pork belly with chilli shrimp jam and red plum relish, and sea trout with pink fir potatoes, beer mustard and salted duck-egg relish. It’s little wonder that none other than Nopi founder Yotam Ottolenghi describes Scully as ‘an exciting and unexpected place to be’.

Words by Maud Rowell.

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