Shackfuyu

14A Old Compton St, London

Part of the Bone Daddies ramen stable, Shackfuyu just opened for a year-long pop- up on Old Compton Street. In a departure from noodles, the menu highlights the big food trends in Japan, and the Western influences at play. Start with Korean fried wings: with a deeper red hue than lava and nearly as hot, they’re best shared with the yellowtail sashimi tostada to cool things down. Larger plates of mentaiko mac ‘n’ cheese with the famous cock scratchings are excellent, as is the prawn toast, though the surprising stand-out dish was fried potatoes with Japanese curry; the classiest take on chips with curry sauce you’ll find. MS. 020 7734 7492

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