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near Girona, Spain
There are parts of the Costa Brava you’ll want to
avoid – and parts you’ll want to escape to. Sant
Feliu de Guíxols, a 90-minute drive from Barcelona,
is the latter. Shaking things up in the seaside town
is Alàbriga Hotel & Home Suites, a 28-suite design
darling with a Michelin-star restaurant overlooking
Sant Pol Beach. Owners Valeri and Svetlana
Scherer are a formidable duo – he’s an artist and
she’s a former editor of Russian Vogue – who pride
themselves on their taste. Their pick in culinary
superstars is just as flawless. Catalonian chef Paco
Pérez earnt the restaurant its first star in 2018, and
now Abraham Artigas takes the helm with a menu
mixing the traditions of the Empordà region with his
own travels, having cooked everywhere from Brazil
to Ghana. We are presented with cod chunks that
have been cooked for five hours, bathed in tiger’s
milk, wrapped in spinach and topped with grated
tuna heart, the tuna tasting like the white truffle of
the sea. Succulent, slightly sweet pork belly is next,
its flavour coming from the pig’s diet of hazelnut
and figs. You’re wise to save room for dessert but
you should also save room in your suitcase. The
crockery’s as delicious as the food and is available
to buy.
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