The Grill at The Dorchester

53 Park Ln, London

Understated it is not. While subtlety has never been a trademark of anything associated with The Dorchester, the decor of The Grill screams a war cry at passers-by, daring them to come and have a go. And you should, because it’s worth it.

Back to the decor and ignoring its very English location, The Grill is a whole world of tartan – it’s on the chairs, cushions, on the blinds, even on the carpets. The walls are adorned with 10ft paintings of Scottish heroes – non-specific heroes that is, although you can bet they didn’t think much of the English – and when a chair isn’t tartan it’s luxurious red and deep-buttoned. The staff describe it as British, but this is Scottish with a capital S. In fact, it’s Scottish with all the letters in capitals. But while this is clearly a great place to have a Burns Night, The Grill is so much more and the fare on offer is certainly diverse in its influences.

There’s always been a grill at The Dorchester, ever since it first opened in 1931 as the culmination of Sir Malcolm McAlpine and Sir Francis Towle’s efforts to create a ‘perfect hotel’. It was once all about the trollies – one for everything from game and salmon to roasts and desserts. But these days they’ve limited them, rolling trollies out for the gravadlax (beautiful with a green lawn of herbs on top of the firm, pink salmon flesh); the 22-strong selection of British cheeses and of course the Sunday roast – still one of the best in the capital. Loin of Finnebrogue venison with butternut squash purée and haggis sauce is served on plates the size of dustbin lids – did I mention the lack of subtlety? But for all of the grandiose surroundings, head chef Brian Hughson offers some serious bighitters on his menu to match the punch of the decor.

Veal sweetbread with morels, crayfish, lettuce and shellfish cream is so full of flavour, you’ll give your own war cry. And the smoked eel tortellini with wood sorrel and lentils is delicately delicious. While you must save space for cheese, for a fresh taste of summer in all its glory, opt for the strawberry tea jelly with berry compote and cucumber – it’s divine, refreshing, sweet and wonderfully English. Sorry, I mean British.