The Kensington Arms

Bristol

Josh Eggleton’s talent was recognised with a Gordon Ramsay Scholarship in 2003, although he later turned down a job with the big man to set up his own restaurant, The Pony and Trap, where he has held a Michelin star since 2011. His latest project, a gastropub in Bristol’s leafy Redland, is that rare thing we wish we all had at the end of our street: a lovable local serving excellent modern-British food. A visit to ‘The Kenny’ begins with a pint of local cider by the fire. Once ensconced in the relaxed-yet-stylish dining room, Eggleton’s love of the south-west is tangible. An oxtail starter has the depth of flavour that comes from well-aged meat and we love the Bath chaps. This Georgian pork cheek delicacy is given an international twist with the addition of lightly battered squid and shreds of pickled red cabbage.