Thirty Six

35 St James's Pl, London

You probably know Dukes hotel for its rightly acclaimed best martini in London, or its Ritz-beating location in the heart of St James’s in London, but after some time spent playing catch-up, the kitchen is now worthy of the postcode. Chef Nigel Mendham arrived at Thirty Six from the Michelin-starred Samling in the Lake District three years ago and his cooking is now on point. By fusing rustic ingredients with deft ultra-modern techniques, he’s created a menu that reads like a greatest hits of British flavours, with innovative touches that wouldn’t look out of place in the San Sebastián hills. His amuse-bouche sets the tone: ripe, burnt-squash soup that’s roasted, blended and seasoned to the hilt of its flavour profile. It’s followed by a langoustine and pickled vegetable plate that blends acidity with the seafood’s creamy notes perfectly, but the stand-out dish is John Dory with lightly charred cauliflower (expect to see that on menus everywhere this year), served with coriander and almonds. In a room so clean-lined it’s verging on sterile, the food really is the main event. MS. 020 7491 4840