Venissa

Fondamenta di Santa Caterina, Venezia VE, Italy

Step off the vaporetto through a wrought-iron gate and enter Venissa, a secret garden on Mazzorbo, an island in Venice’s lagoon. It has all of the elements of a perfect meal: an acre of well-tended vegetable gardens, a vineyard and glasshouse kitchen to cook in. Oh, and a star chef. Paola Budel is a wandering star who has been brought home by Gianluca Bisol, whose family produces award-winning prosecco at nearby Valdobbiadene. Here he’s planted the golden dorona grape favoured by Venetian doges and built a restaurant to feature Budel’s creative palate. Working with just-caught seafood, local meats and homegrown vegetables, the chef creates clean lines and flavours. Tangy beetroot sauce with pearly cuttlefish and green apple; iridescent red mullet and roasted porcini on lettuce cream; ravioli stuffed with piquant aubergine, dressed with salty capers and buffalo curd-cheese: Budel’s weekly menu is perfectly matched by an unusual collection of wines from the Veneto. There are six guest rooms, too.