Vineet Bhatia London

10 Lincoln St, Chelsea, London SW3 2TS

As these photos suggest, you’d be forgiven for mistaking Vineet Bhatia London for any west London townhouse. Indeed, you even have to knock to get in. Once you’re over the threshold, the home-from-home vibe continues. Deep shag collapses beneath your feet, a stairwell leads to a terrace and the 12-cover main dining room has the feel of a contemporary living space. But here the similarities end. From the moment lime soup and smoked prawn chaat canapés are delivered, you’re duly informed that you’re in the heart of a modern Indian restaurant. Bhatia was arguably the first chef to bring new Indian food to the capital, and with the new VBL (previously Rasoi) he takes things further, with artfully broken plates in a kaleidoscope of colours and flavours that mix Europe with India. Spiced foie gras features in a beetroot macaron, chilli cod is delicately spiced and duck korma has a pleasing sweetness. The star of the show is the menu’s most unfussy dish: patiala chicken. With none of the crockery flair of previous courses, it’s simply a bowl of curry that’s bursting with basic brilliance.