Wilton

55 Jermyn St, London

With a rich history, superb service and enduring dishes, Wiltons is more than worthy of its reputation

Some restaurants are simply very good. You know quality as soon as you walk through the door. From the seamless collection of coats to a timely transaction with the bill, a good restaurant feels effortless and smooth. Wiltons – the second-oldest restaurant in London, opening in 1742 – has had centuries’ of practice and completes every aspect of service with aplomb.

As you would expect, a restaurant nearly 300 years old has a few stories to tell. During The Blitz in 1942, the West End of London was under regular attack. The restaurant’s owner Bessie Leal was serving oysters to one of her regulars, Olaf Hambro, who was dining alone at the marble-topped bar. A bomb landed in Piccadilly, shaking the restaurant to its foundations. Leal had enough. She removed her apron and announced that she was to sell the restaurant and move out of London. She asked Hambro if he knew of anyone who wanted to buy one. With that, he casually asked her to add the cost of the site to the bottom of his bill and the deal was done.Since then it’s gone from strength to strength. With a clandestine entrance on Jermyn Street, you’d never guess that a 100-cover space lies behind the demure door. Customers who have been coming for decades sit at their regular tables next to occasion diners who come for classically composed dishes produced with panache. As a one-time shmonger, its selection from the sea is as strong as it always has been. A lobster bisque has the earthy depth of flavour only obtainable from a quality prawn head stock, while the cheese soufflé has been on the menu since the restaurant opened, and for good reason. It’s packed with an umami flavour that will set your palate alight.

Fish of unimpeachable quality is served grilled or à la meunière, best paired with a mashed potato where you’re advised not to ask the quantity of butter. Beautifully seasoned spinach and green beans have a perfect portion size and for pudding, you can do no better than a rich-yet-delicate chocolate fondant. If savouries are your thing, a Welsh rarebit with punch is the way to end a meal. They say quality will never go out fashion and Wiltons is case in point. We’ve no doubt it will still be there in another 300 years.