Wiltons

55 Jermyn St, London

Former prime ministers, plutocrats, movie stars: they all count Wiltons as their destination of choice. That’s because this discreet, old-school restaurant on Jermyn Street makes you feel safe and special, cocooned from the trials and responsibilities of the outside world. Inside you’ll find cosy private booths, white linen, ochre walls, and soothing paintings of stags or Renoiresque peasants. Apart from the waitresses’ attire (they are, unnervingly, clad in what appear to be pale green nurses’ uniforms) it’s all very reassuring, and very conservative. And the service – friendly yet solicitous, knowledgeable yet unpretentious – is flawless.

As for the food, since its first incarnation in 1742 as an oyster and shrimp stall, Wiltons has always had a reputation for fine seafood (it holds a Royal Warrant for oysters). The British menu follows the
seasons – game in autumn and winter, as well as perennial fish and shellfish classics: turbot, Dover sole (grilled, poached or meunière) and lobster (plain, thermidor or Newburg). Everything is cooked quite simply, but this just serves to show off the quality of the ingredients – juicy, shelled langoustines sizzled in a pool of herby butter; crab and avocado salad was disarmingly clean, fresh and unfussy. On to mains: meaty seared scallops, velvety sirloin steak (more medium than rare) with nutty, golden girolles. Sides were just as good: earthy, aromatic truffle mash and satisfyingly salty spinach.

The cheese board offers just five British varieties – so you can try them all. Puddings are pure nursery nostalgia: quivering burnt Cambridge cream with raspberries, bread-and-butter pud and ice cream. There’s just room for coffee, home-made petit fours and a digestif suggested by the excellent sommelier (there’s a wonderful, epic wine list) before heading back out into the racket and glare of the modern world. Ah, yes – at Wiltons, they make you feel like a million dollars. Which, frankly, you’ll need to dine here regularly; the bill will make you catch your breath. But it’s worth trying, just once, for the experience. Be warned, however – like the old blue-bloods who return time and time again, you might not be able to stay away.