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Food and Wine Trails of Italy: Veneto, Custoza
Italy is a country rich in culinary heritage, where regions, cities, towns and villages all have distinct flavours. Our five-part series takes you on gastronomic road trips to discover the best
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To the south of Lake Garda and east of the River Mincio lies the terrain of south-west Veneto. Here, multi-varietal grapes create diverse pours for a cuisine inspired by water and land, with tortellini rolled as fine as a silk handkerchief
Starting a new journey with a picnic is always a good idea. It sets the mood, brings back carefree childhood memories and immerses you in your surroundings. Nothing to do with the blanket-and-basket thing you have in mind – the experience Gorgo winery creates feels rather like being in a movie set. Every detail is carefully considered, from the colour-coordinated plush pillows and decorative charms to the low table covered in a crochet tablecloth with all the nibbles you can think of. And a chilled white, of course. From the vineyards a few steps away, a couple of visitors emerge from the rows, coming back from a horseback excursion. There can’t be a better way to get acquainted with a new territory.
Named after a nearby village, Custoza wine combines sapidity, minerality and fruitiness. It’s the result of a very generous land in a blissful corner of Veneto, right at the border with Lombardy, south of Lake Garda and between the two beauties Verona and Mantua. The landscape creates a Mediterranean-like microclimate – it’s a lush territory of olive trees, lemon groves and seasonal delicacies like the slightly sweet Broccoletto di Custoza broccoli or the Pesca di Verona, a juicy peach grown in the fertile plains around the lake.
A cypress tree-lined avenue leads into the village of Custoza. The now-sleepy hamlet, sitting amid the gentle hills, was once the battleground for two crucial events during the wars of the so-called Risorgimento, the 19th-century movement for Italian unification. On the opposite hill, the elongated shape of the Ossuary still serves as a sombre reminder of those battles.
A few meters away, Trattoria Colli Storici is a customary stop to sample the local cuisine, making for a delightful encounter with Lombardy and Veneto flavours – and one of those you don’t often stumble on. In times where the word trattoria is often used for fashionable restaurants, this straightforward place is a rare find: a no-sign, no-menu kind of place, with tables under a vine-covered pergola. It’s a favourite with local hunters – they’ll bring their own game, ask the patron to cook it for them and, if you happen to be there at the right time, you might get a share of it too. Coniglio in umido (rabbit in a tomato sauce) with a generous portion of polenta, is always on offer, regardless of the season. And it’s as traditional as it gets. Matteo Brentengani, who runs the place with sister Chiara, brings it to the table in a large pot, to share. ‘Locals would eat the rabbit first, then they’d order some plain tagliatelle and season them with the leftover sauce.’ When in Rome, then…
An abundance of water in the area makes it ideal for fish lovers too. The Mincio river flows to the west of Custoza, twisting and turning from the southern shore of Lake Garda. The best way to explore the area along the river is to leave your car in the town of Peschiera, where the waterfront buzzes with locals and holidaymakers alike, and hop on a bike – medieval Valeggio sul Mincio is less than an hour away. After a bike tour of the magnificent Parco Sigurtà, rightly considered one of the most spectacular parks in Italy, head straight to Alla Borsa, where Nadia Pasquali’s famous tortellini await.
Nadia leads the way into the backyard laboratory, where six sfogline (pasta makers) quickly fill up large trays of that ring-shaped goodness with skilful and precise gestures. Known as the ‘love knot’, Valeggio’s tortellini got their name from the legend of the impossible love between a nymph and her human lover. They disappeared together in the river, leaving behind a yellow knotted silk handkerchief, a metaphor for their eternal love. Unlike the Bolognese version, the filling is made solely of a mix of braised Custoza meats. No cured meats, no cheese – and a pasta that has to be rolled thin enough to resemble a silk handkerchief. The result is a melt-in-the-mouth pasta with a most delicate taste. Nadia’s red tortelli (larger in size) are another must – from ripened Monte Veronese cheese to the zest of lemons from Lake Garda and even flowers from Mount Baldo, this is a delicious tribute to the flavours of the area, leading her to exclaim, ‘It tastes of holidays!’ Perfect, then, with a glass of Custoza.
Thanks to a harmonious combination of different vines, with local grapes garganega, trebbianello and bianca fernanda taking the lion’s share, Custoza is known for its versatility. This vast array of grapes – the appellation area overlaps that of Bardolino, a dry red that is also a blend of several varieties – reflects the cultural history of a territory traditionally dedicated to trade, where merchants often used grafted vines from their places of origin to barter.
‘Each variety brings its own characteristics, enhancing the wine’s complexity and allowing producers to express their personality,’ explains winemaker Andrea Menegotti. ‘If you like, monovarietal is like a Pantone, while Custoza is a palette of different colours.’
Nearby, at the enchanting village of Borghetto sul Mincio, the bond between water and man is particularly evident. Here, the Mincio feeds several 15th-century mills, which were originally used for processing cereals. Tucked behind one of them is La Chiusina, a small haven of fine cuisine with room for just 20 guests. To get a true taste of the area on your first visit, co-owner and chef Cristian Errati recommends their ‘Lake and River’ tasting menu. ‘It’s a tribute to the river that flows under our feet and to the lake that gives life to it. It’s a menu of gratitude,’ he says.
The highlight is the tongue-twisting anguilla affumicata pane burro e marmellata (smoked eel, bread, butter and jam). Eel fillet, breadcrumbs, burrata from the Mincio valley and onion jam, with a splash of aged balsamic vinegar, whose slightly acidic notes balance out the fattiness of the fish – it’s a phenomenal dish in which comfort breakfast food meets fine dining.
It’s best to finish your journey in the same way it started: among the vines. At Le Vigne di San Pietro winemaker Carlo Nerozzi, hosts regular aperitivo evenings in the atmospheric garden outside his ivy-covered villa. The green expanse of vineyards below blushes in the gloaming light as the clinking of wine glasses sets a rhythm for the lounge music in the background. Contrasting with the dazzling blue of the swimming pool, the view of Sommacampagna is bathed in different tones of green – the intense hue of the vines, the silvery sheen of olive trees and the darker shade of the cypress trees.
‘I am just the warden of all this,’ shrugs Carlo with a smile, opening his arms as if to embrace the estate. ‘We don’t own anything, we can only preserve what we have, with responsibility and awareness.’ Carlo is, in his own words, ‘an architect by training, a creative by character and a farmer by chance’. To him, taking good care of what we have is a life philosophy. He was, after all, one of the delegates who signed the founding manifesto of the Slow Food movement in 1989 in Paris, promoting sustainability long before the word entered our current mainstream vocabulary.
‘That is what wine is to me,’ he continues, looking at the joyful crowd in the garden, ‘a medium, an expressive tool that facilitates cultural mediation, the gathering and the exchange of knowledge between people.’ Respect for the territory is a common thing here, combined with a hedonistic attitude towards the pleasures of life.
The route
Day 1 Custoza to Villafranca Choose between one of the trails departing from the small town of Custoza, such as the 3km Tamburino Sardo Trail, mostly through vineyards. In Villafranca, visit the 12th-century Scaligero Castle and Palazzo Bottagisio, where history was made during the Italian wars of independence – and be sure to try sweet local sfogliatine pastries.
Day 2 Valeggio to Borghetto Explore medieval Valeggio sul Mincio. Call into Sigurtà park with its lakes and rose avenue, and take a tour of the 17th-century Villa Sigurtà, the luxurious former summer home of the Maffei counts. Continue to Borghetto sul Mincio, dominated by the mighty 14th-century fortified Ponte Visconteo and, if you have energy left, walk up to the remains of the castle at the top of the hill.
Day 3 From Borghetto to Peschiera Head to Peschiera, at the south of Lake Garda, for a 15km cycle along the Mincio river via the Ciclopista del Sole, a Roman stronghold, where the Venetians later built a fortress. Make a diversion to the Madonna del Frassino sanctuary to see Veronese artworks. Unesco-listed Laghetto del Frassino Nature Reserve is nearby.
Day 4 Peschiera to Lazise Spend a day exploring Lake Garda’s southern shore. Near Lazise’s small port and 16th-century Venetian customs house, the church of San Nicolò houses 14th-century frescoes. Also, take in the view of the Lombard town of Sirmione, with its turreted walls.
Day 5 Sommacampagna Take the 8km Camminacustoza trail through ancient hamlets, fields, forests, springs and meadows. Move on, perhaps, to a challenging round at the par 72 Golf Club Verona, which follows the slopes of Garda, with superb views and a restaurant offering traditional cuisine. Or relax at Aquardens Thermal Park in Santa Lucia, Europe’s largest, with pools, lagoons, grottos and cascades of pure thermal water. End the day with a glass at one of the wineries scattered across the area.
Where to eat
Prices are per person for a three-course meal, unless otherwise stated
Alla Borsa In the centre of Valeggio sul Mincio, this is the address to sample handmade stuffed pasta, from iconic ‘love knot’ tortellini in butter and sage to tortelli in the three colours of the Italian flag. Owner Nadia Pasquali is a gracious host and a great ambassador for the area. Tables fill up quickly so book ahead. If the weather is nice, ask to sit in the garden, with a view of the ancient hilltop castle. From £32. Via Goito 2, Valeggio sul Mincio, 00 39 045 795 0093, ristoranteborsa.it
Caffè Fantoni History was made in this café as Italy fought for its national unity – and the decor has changed little since. The names of specialities speak to the past, from torta della pace, marking the end of the Second Italian War of Independence (1859), to light sfogliatine – handmade pastries with a buttery, crisp, sugar coating. Ask for a glass of the moderately alcoholic liqueur, acqua di Fiume. Sfogliatine from 85p. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 161, 00 39 045 630 2084, caffefantoni1842.com
La Chiusina This small, fine-diner by Cristian Errati is spectacularly located in a secluded corner, with the Mincio flowing beneath you. Everything is beautifully executed, from marinated Arctic char from Riva del Garda to the delicate luccioperca (pike-perch). Don’t miss their signature tortelli di luccio, with its pike filling combined with sardines and sour herbs from nearby Castel Goffredo. Five-course tasting menus (‘Lake and River’, or ‘Sea’), £55pp; wine pairing £21pp. Via Raffaello Sanzio 22, Valeggio sul Mincio, 00 39 348 651 8823, lachiusina.it
Locanda Belvedere Meat and poultry is the speciality of this family-run restaurant in Santa Lucia. Ribs, chops, T-bone steak – you name it, they grill it – their pollo alla griglia (grilled chicken) is a highlight. They also have rooms available. From £25. Località Santa Lucia Monti 12, Valeggio sul Mincio, 00 39 045 630 1019, ristorantebelvedere.eu
Trattoria Colli Storici A few metres from the Ossuary, Custoza’s famous landmark, this homely trattoria serves traditional fare. In nice weather, you can eat under the vine-covered pergola but the interior is equally atmospheric, with black and white images of the first festival of Custoza wine setting the mood. There’s no written menu, but pasta dishes such as bigoli con le sarde (sardines), freshwater fish like luccio in salsa verde (pike in green sauce) and coniglio in umido (rabbit in tomato sauce) are regular features. From £25. Strada Ossario 2, Custoza, 00 39 045 516014
The producers
Gorgo Nestled in the countryside outside Custoza, this family-run winery is all about sustainability. Under the lead of Roberta Bricolo, the entire production has been organic-certified since 2018. According to the season, tastings can be arranged in the historic tavern, by a massive stone fireplace, or by the pool in the new wing – an architectural blend of rusty iron, rough-hewn stone and brushed wood. Private horseback riding tours and picnics in the vineyards also available on request. Four-wine tasting, £17pp; two-hour horseback tour, £76pp; picnic, £25pp. Booking required. Via Gorgo 15/19, Custoza, 00 39 045 516842, cantinagorgo.com
Le Vigne di San Pietro Founded by father and son architect duo Sergio and Carlo Nerozzi in 1981, this boutique winery sits on the rolling hills overlooking Sommacampagna. Carlo personally takes care of most of the tastings, which include a tour of the 10ha property and are accompanied by locally sourced food. Regular aperitivo and dinner events take place in the garden outside their ivy-covered villa through the summer and autumn; check their website for dates. Tastings from £21 to £42pp, depending on the number of wines. Booking required. Via San Pietro 23, Sommacampagna, 00 39 045 510016, levignedisanpietro.it
Menegotti Brothers Andrea and Antonio Menegotti are the third generation of this family-run business outside Villafranca. One-hour wine tastings take place in the sleek showroom overlooking the vines and include a visit to the cellar, where barrels rest under impressive brick vaults. They have been pioneers in the production of metodo classico (méthode champenoise) in the area, so make sure you taste their bubbly as well. Booking required. Three-wine tastings, £21pp. Località Acquaroli 7, Villafranca, 00 39 045 790 2611, menegotticantina.com
Where to stay
Casino di Caccia Emilia Bresaola took great care in converting her aristocratic family’s historic hunting lodge into this stylish resort. The six rooms are lavishly decorated with vintage furniture and surrounded by 13ha of vineyards, woodlands and olive groves. Accommodation includes access to a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and in-house restaurant. A fully-equipped spa is opening soon, along with seven new apartments in a new annexe. Doubles from £110, including breakfast. Strada Ossario 64, Custoza, 00 39 045 516499, casinodicaccia.com
La finestra sul Fiume Mattea and Pietro Gandini’s B&B is in a dreamlike riverside location just a stone’s throw from Borghetto. There is no sign on the small cast iron gate opening on to the green lawn, so this feels like a secret for those in the know. Just three rooms are set among willow trees, poplars and an enchanting pond with lotus flowers – choose the one on the ground floor for a private garden. In nice weather, breakfast is served on the little islands facing the property, for the ultimate in rural romance. Doubles from £194, including breakfast. Corte Sega 2, Valeggio sul Mincio, 00 39 045 795 0556, lafinestrasulfiume.it
Hotel Veronesi La Torre This sleek four-star hotel in a former 16th-century monastery is conveniently located near Verona’s airport. Rooms in the main wing feature the best of international design, from Philippe Starck to Le Corbusier, plus a different type marble-plated door for each room, totalling 90 varieties of Veronese marble. The new wing, opened in 2021, offers even more spacious rooms, featuring a walk-in closet and a large balcony overlooking the swimming pool. Among the facilities are a spa with a wide selection of treatments and an in-house restaurant. Doubles from £121. Free shuttle bus to/from the airport. Via Monte Baldo 22, Dossobuono di Villafranca, 00 39 045 860 4811, hotelveronesilatorre.it
Read more about the region’s wine at custoza.wine and for further information on food and wine trails of Italy, visit italia.it/en
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