Why go?

Once the capital of the Mughal Empire, Agra forms part of India’s Golden Triangle (along with Delhi and Jaipur). In ‘the City of the Taj Mahal’, it’s hard not to base your entire itinerary around one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, and while it will form a momentous part of any trip, the lively bazaars, vibrant cuisine and mesmerising architecture shouldn’t be missed. By November, the last of the monsoon mists have rolled by and sunny days can be expected. Travelling in India can be unpredictable – restaurants swap names like sisters swap clothes, hotels open and close within a matter of days and train timetables change without warning. It’s simultaneously chaotic and peaceful, elegant and overwhelming. Surrendering to the erratic is key: embrace the crowds, absorb the colour and submerse yourself in a rich and fascinating culture.

What to do

Welcoming over eight million visitors annually, the Taj Mahal tajmahal.gov.in really does live up to the hype. Commissioned in 1631 by Emperor Shah Jahan as a testament of love to his late wife, the sheer scale of the tomb is mesmerising. After being awed by the marble mausoleum, take an 11-minute rickshaw ride to Agra Fort. A maze of rust-red sandstone buildings bedecked with ornate carvings, gleaming marble pillars and underground passages, the 16th-century fortress is essentially a city within a city. Erected by Shah Jahan in 1628, most of the fort is still in use by the Indian Army, and much of it is off-limits. The parts that you can visit, however, perfectly capture the opulence of the Mughal Empire. Don’t miss the Shish Mahal (Mirror Palace), where hundreds of tiny mirrors cover the walls or the web of scalloped courtyards framing the Taj Mahal, known as the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience). Finish with a visit to the octagonal tower in which Shah Jahan was imprisoned for eight years until his death in 1666 (entry £8.50pp). From here he could gaze out over the Taj Mahal and the tomb of his wife. Located 40km outside of Agra, fortified ancient city Fatehpur Sikri fatehpursikri.gov.in was the Mughal capital between 1572 and 1585, before being abandoned due to water shortages. Explore three palaces dedicated to Emperor Akbar’s wives, the largest mosque in India, Jama Masjid, and numerous temples.

Where to stay

With a Taj Mahal view from each of its 102 rooms, The Oberoi Amarvilas 00 91 562 223 1515, oberoihotels.com is a celebration of the city’s storied past. Its lounge opens exclusively for guests at 5am for sunrise views over the treasured monument. Originally built as a colonial hotel at the height of the British Empire, the 30-suite Grand Imperial 00 91 562 400 2781, hotelgrandimperial.com mixes impressive Victorian architecture with Indian elegance, as seen in the four-poster beds and grand verandas. Nestled amid 14ha of manicured grounds, sparkling fountains and pomegranate orchards, the 233-room ITC Mughal 00 91 562 402 1700, itchotels.in has a decor inspired by Mughal emperors and is situated near the vibrant Sadar Bazaar.

Where to eat and drink

Head to Sadar Bazaar to try a dizzying array of regional delicacies. Start off with petha, a powdery sweet made with white pumpkin ash and nuts. Get yours at Panchhi Petha panchhipetha.com – a well-loved sweet shop with outposts across Rajasthan. Next, look out for street vendors serving local staple bhalla from small clay bowls – spiced potato blended with tamarind and yoghurt, topped with chickpea curry. Seek refuge at Ram Babu Paratha Bhandar 6/127, Belanganj Road, Gopal Bazaar. While unassuming from the outside, its Mughlai paratha – pan-fried flatbread stuffed with cheese, carrot and cauliflower – attracts a devoted local crowd. Anise marriott.com sits atop the Marriott hotel. It is open from October to March, when the sunsets are most evocative. Menu highlights include a fiery vegetable biryani.

Time running out?

Wander the Mehtab Bagh (Moonlight Garden) at sunset for golden views of the Taj Mahal from every angle.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Indian rupee (INR). Time is 5.5 hours ahead of the UK. Flight time from London to Delhi is 8 hours 40 minutes. From Delhi, take a 1hr 40 minute train from Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station in South Delhi to Agra Cantonment. Irctc.co.in

Getting There

Air India flies direct from London Heathrow to Delhi. airindia.in

British Airways offers regular flights on the same route.

ba.com

Resources

Uttar Pradesh Tourism is the official tourist board. Its website offers a wealth of sightseeing information. uptourism.gov.in