Why go?

Sprawling along the Mediterranean coast, Egypt’s second-largest city may be big and bustling, but it has an infectious beach vibe. Alexandria is a less frantic experience than its more boisterous cousin Cairo, with cooler temperatures, fresher air – and far fewer tourists. Home to the country’s busiest port, it’s a mishmash of Islamic architecture and European influences, with towering museums and al fresco cafés brimming with locals sampling seafood or puffing on fragrant shishas. It’s perhaps at its most memorable at sunset, when the gorgeous curve of the elegantly decaying corniche is bathed in salmon pink light.

What to do

With views of city and sea, the Citadel of Qaitbay at the entrance to Alexandria’s eastern harbour is a good starting point. An hour is enough to explore this 15th-century fortress built on the site of the lighthouse that was one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. The Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi mosque, a short walk away, offers striking architecture, exquisite floor-to-ceiling tiling and vast, imposing chandeliers. To experience one of the ahwa, traditional coffee shops, in the area, try Al Farouk (00 20 34 80 31 03), which is reminiscent of a vintage 1920s hidey-hole, with rustic bronze lanterns and men playing chess to the constant bubble of shisha pipes. Facing out to the Mediterranean like a Herculean sundial, the Bibliotheca Alexandrina (bibalex.org) is both a beacon of modernity and steeped in history. Its museums are filled with mummies and manuscripts dating back more than 5,000 ears, while outside 120 scripts are carved into the imposing Aswan granite walls. The history found at Montazah is of a decidedly more modern vein; in the park you’ll find Moorish-style palaces, built for sheikhs and kings, swaddled by exotic tropical gardens containing a wide variety of rare and unusual plants, all accessible for just a 40p entrance fee and within easy reach of the nearby beach.

Where to stay

Equidistant from the citadel and the library on the corniche, Windsor Palace Hotel (00 20 34 80 87 00) boasts art nouveau flourishes with marble pillars, a wonderfully atmospheric wrought-iron lift and a great terrace.Travellers who want to escape the city hubbub should consider Villa Sahara (00 20 35 43 43 23, villasahara.com) in King Mariout, a 30-minute drive from the centre of Alexandria. The four-room villa comes with a private pool and the services of a personal driver – a blessing on Egyptian roads.

Where to eat and drink

Food is a 24-hour affair, with bars, street stalls and coffee shops open until the wee hours. For traditional Egyptian cuisine, Kushari Bondok (00 20 34 27 00 00) has the best kushari, a classic dish of macaroni, lentils and rice topped with a spicy tomato sauce and crispy fried onions. Downtown, Mohamed Ahmed (00 20 34 87 35 76) serves top-quality falafel and numerous variations of fuul – fava beans with oil and lemon – and soft flatbread. Café Trianon (00 20 34 86 09 73) has bragged of serving the best om’ali, a typical filo pastry pudding of sugar, raisins, coconut and cinnamon soaked in milk, in Alexandria for years and is undoubtedly one of the city’s most luxurious cafés. When it comes to seafood, this Egyptian hub excels, and the locals’ favourite is Balbaa (00 20 35 40 08 88) in the centre of the city. Open all night, the busy two-storey restaurant specialises in grilled dishes, which it prepares using some of the freshest produce around. Choose your fish, prawns or squid, bought from that day’s market, and the kitchen will cook them to taste.

Time running out?

The Al-Attarine souk is a labyrinth of narrow streets where you can watch craftsmen at work, hunt for antiques
and showcase your bartering skills. As most places stay open late in Egypt, you can easily make the souk an evening adventure.

Travel Information

Travel Information

The currency is the Egyptian pound (E£). Alexandria is one hour ahead of GMT. The flight time from London is around five hours.

Getting There

Egypt Air (egyptair.com) flies to Alexandria via Cairo from London Heathrow.
Royal Jordanian (rj.com) flies from London Heathrow to Alexandria via Amman, Jordan.

Resources

Egypt Tourism Authority (egypt.travel) provides detailed information on sights and upcoming events in Alexandria.