Why go?

Most widely known for its oil wealth (not to mention hosting the 2012 Eurovision Song Contest), Azerbaijan’s capital has been busy preparing for its biggest moment in the spotlight when it stages the first ever European Games, baku2015.com, in June. Because of a recent 30 per cent devaluation of the local currency taking the sting out of hotel rates, there’s never been a better time to get a taste of Eurasia’s epicentre of glitz.

What to do

Although somewhat over-enthusiastically restored, the compact Old City still has plenty of charm. Get your bearings from the rooftop of the 12th-century Maiden Tower, Baku’s foremost architectural icon, before haggling for an exquisite Azerbaijani carpet in one of the dozen-odd emporiums near its base. The walled city’s warren of twisting alleys leads to the Palace of the Shirvanshahs. The seat of Azerbaijan’s ruling dynasty during the Middle Ages, this stunning sandstone complex is now a museum. Just beyond the Old City on the Caspian side, the new rug-shaped Carpet Museum, 00 994 12 497 2057, azcarpetmuseum.az, is impossible to miss – and on a sunny day, the wide seafront bulvar (boulevard) hugging the shoreline on its doorstep is a lovely spot for a stroll. Baku has a burgeoning art scene and the Jean Nouvel-designed Museum of Modern art, 00 994 12 490 8404, mim.az, houses some of its best contemporary works. A short taxi ride from here on the edge of the new city, the fluid white mass of the Zaha Hadid-designed Heydar Aliyev Center, heydaraliyevcenter.az, is testament to Baku’s radical departure from its legacy of normative Soviet modernism. The big draw is the structure itself, but the high-tech permanent museum inside has plenty on Azerbaijan’s turbulent history. If you’ve got time, sign up for a day trip to the ancient petroglyphs of Gobustan, about 60km south-west of Baku. En route, you’ll glimpse what’s left of the swathe of creaking donkey pumps that set the scene for Brosnan-era James Bond caper The World is Not Enough, a film title one could argue is now an apt motto for Baku itself.

Where to stay

The Fairmont Baku, 00 994 12 565 4848, fairmontbaku.com/baku, in the iconic flame towers perched above the Old City, has Baku’s finest spa. Also opened in the past few years, the JW Marriott Absheron, 00 994 12 499 8888, marriott.com, in Port Baku, wins points for its restaurants (fireworks Urban Kitchen serves Baku’s best steak) and 21st-floor gym. The Shah Palace, 00 994 12 497 0405, eng.shahpalacehotel.com, fits the bill for classic azeri luxury.

Where to eat and drink

Fuel up with the delicious local cheeses and dried fruits that feature on hotel breakfast buffets, or head to hip Bisque Cafe, 00 994 12 598 9995, for a Mediterranean-style brunch. For lunch, try a few local favourites: such as lyula (lamb or mutton skewer served with lavash bread), plov (Azeri-style pilaf), qovurma (lamb stewed with onions and pomegranate) and saj ichi (meat and vegetables cooked in a cast-iron pot). Find them at kitsch-fabulous Baku institution Firuza, 00 994 12 318 6545, or the more upmarket, caravanserai-style Mugham Club, 00 994 12 492 4085. Azeris are mad for tea at any time of the day; you can find chaikhanas (teahouses) everywhere, but the Fairmont Baku’s Nur Lounge does a splendid afternoon tea with all the trimmings. If you haven’t had your fill of local fare, head to swish Sumakh, 00 994 12 480 2112, for dinner, or go pan-asian at Chinar, 00 994 12 404 8211, chinardining.com, washed down with a cocktail at eclectic new bar-of-the-moment Pivnaya Apteka, 00 994 12 404 8218. Get a glass of quaffable locally produced fireland vineyards wine at the Landmark Hotel’s Sky Bar, 00 994 12 465 2000, thelandmarkhotel.az, which makes up for its ho-hum design with fabulous views from a roof terrace.

Time running out?

Swing by Bir Iki, just off Fountain Square, for an excellent takeaway doner kebab for the equivalent of £2.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Azerbaijani manat. Time is four hours ahead of GMT. Travel time is about 5 hours 30 minutes from London. The cost to carbon-offset is £8. 28, visit climatecare.org

Getting There

British Airways flies direct from London Heathrow to Heydar Aliyev International Airport. ba.com

Azerbaijan Railways operates local and international trains, and provides a regular service to Moscow.

Resources

Azerbaijan Travel is a handy port of call, with visa information and a good introduction to national cuisine. azerbaijan.travel/