Why go?

Vast, fast and endlessly stimulating, Beijing is a city you can revisit and always discover something new. The culture is fascinating, the people infinitely playful and the architecture hugely varied. There are the gleaming skyscrapers of the central business district with its iconic CCTV tower, the rainbow of neon lights that surround Houhai lake and the winding, mysterious hutongs (alleyways) of the centre, with the narrowest (Qianshi Hutong) just 40cm wide. First built during the Yuan dynasty of 1271-1368, these streets are where you’ll find the real Beijing. Old customs die hard here. Locals still bet on cricket fighting and often keep the insects as pets down their shirts in gourds so they can listen to their music throughout the day. September is the perfect time to visit as the rainy season is over, temperatures have dropped to a comfortable 25C and the air quality is at its best before winter.

What to do

Beijing has been the epicentre of China’s political and cultural scene since the Ming dynasty and both of the country’s most famous sights can be found in the city. The Great Wall is a phenomenon that has to be seen to be believed. Built on top of a mountain range, it is held together with mortar made from sticky rice and stretches 8,850km. Eunuchs, concubines, murderers and emperors – the Forbidden City has seen them all. The 980 buildings that make up this magnificent palace were built without using a single nail and were guarded by huge walls for 500 years. Any commoner to step through the gates was put to death but now you can explore at your leisure. Less internationally renowned but no less staggering is the Summer Palace in the Haidian District. This royal pleasure ground luxuriates through 300ha and is dotted with 3,000 man-made structures including temples, bridges and lakeside pavilions, with name such as ‘Wonderland’ and ‘Hall of the Dispelling Clouds’. Discovering the hutongs is Beijing’s greatest pleasure. Those in the Zhong-Gulou area are particularly atmospheric because they’ve barely been touched since the 13th century, while Wudaoying Hutong is the centre of the city’ independent café scene. Try Metal Hands and LG’s Café for super-strong coffee and people-watching opportunities.

Where to stay

In a gleaming skyscraper in the heart of the CBD, Rosewood Beijing rosewoodhotels.com is the city’s premier luxury address. Stunning interiors are inspired by iconic Chinese novel The Dream of the Red Chamber and have plenty of local character, while the Country Kitchen and House of Dynasties restaurants are both excellent. If doing lengths while looking out over some of Beijing’s quirkiest hutongs sounds appealing, try The Emperor theemperor.com.cn , a good-value option with a rooftop pool. It’s a bit of a mouthful, but Lv Garden Huanghuali Art Gallery’s collection of Qing and Ming dynasty artefacts is not to be missed. Laid out in an ancient courtyard style, this boutique hotel is on the northern edge of the city, well located for visiting the Great Wall.

Where to eat and drink

Like most things in Beijing, the food is seeped in history and distinctly different from the rest of China. Head to Siji Minfu 00 86 10 6513 5141 on Langfang 2nd Alley for Peking duck. The crisp skin is served dipped in crunchy sugar and with the more traditional sweet bean paste instead of hoisin sauce. Try Man Fu Lou 00 86 10 6403 0992 on Di’anmen Inner Street for hotpot, a dish that is deeply woven into the fabric of local culture. A huge pot of broth boils at your table, in which you blanch raw delicacies such as strips of beef, noodles, mushrooms and quails eggs. Old Beijing Zhajiang Noodle King 00 86 10 6705 6705 is a low-key option that specialises in zhajiang mian, a cool noodle salad avoured with a moreish bean and pork paste.

Time running out?

Set aside a few hours to visit the Yonghe Temple, a sprawling grid of 17th-century buildings and courtyards scented with wafts of incense. yonghegong.cn

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the yuan renminbi. Time is seven hours ahead of GMT. Flight time is ten hours from London. The cost to carbon-offset is £16. 78. For more details visit climatecare.org

Getting There

Aeroflot has flights from Gatwick via Moscow. aeroflot.com

Air China operates several direct flights a day from London Heathrow to Beijing. airchina.co.uk

Resources

China National Tourist Office is the local tourist board’s online resource and has a whole section of practical advice as well as plenty of inspiration for your trip. cnto.org