Why go?

Beirut’s buzz is infectious. While the city still bares scars from the civil war that ended in 1990, its residents see a bright future ahead. Newly erected buildings housing flashy hotels and restaurants complement a glitzy shopping scene and dynamic nightlife. The local cuisine is mouth-watering: you can’t seem to go wrong with meze, Lebanon’s answer to tapas. And, as one of the world’s oldest cities, the historical offering isn’t half bad either.

What to do

Building is big business and you can’t move for new hotels, restaurants and offices. In the midst of it all, the National Museum (beirutnationalmuseum.com) showcases artefacts from prehistory to the French colonial era. All 100,000 objects in the museum’s possession were found in Lebanon – and, as the land was conquered by everyone from Alexander the Great to the Romans and beyond, the collection epitomises the ancient world. The city’s diverse legacies come into focus at Centre Ville, where you’ll find the azure-domed Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, the ornate Maronite cathedral of St George and the Catholic church of St Anthony all bordering one another. A short stroll away is the statue of the Martyrs, which commemorates Lebanese nationals executed in the First World War, its figures poignantly studded with bullet holes from the more recent civil conflict. Roman ruins are woven into the modern city: ancient columns rise from the Garden of Forgiveness and a vast baths complex spreads before the Prime Minister’s home, The Grand Serail. There are thoroughly modern attractions, too: a giant Rolex clock marks time from its art deco tower in Place de l’Étoile, the central square of the shopping and restaurant district. A stroll away is Beirut Souk. Not to be confused with a traditional market, this new mall is where the likes of Armani and Louis Vuitton have set up shop, so prepare to spend serious cash. For a more boutique shopping experience visit Saifi Village, the art quarter, with its French-colonial style homes. Walk along the Corniche, a five-kilometre seaside walkway, to view the natural stone arches of Pigeon Rocks, or hire a cab to Byblos, an ancient settlement just a 30-minute drive away. You’ll see a crusade-era castle and remains of 8,000-year-old homes. It’s mandatory to stop for a seaside lunch at the iconic Pepe’s (00 961 954 0213), which has been run by the Abed family for 60 years.

Where to stay

Old-school glamour oozes from grande dame The Phoenicia (00 961 136 9100, phoeniciabeirut.com). Perched on the Mediterranean for nearly 50 years, it’s the go-to hotel for dignitaries and stars. The breakfast buffet is legendary. Boutique Le Vendôme (00 961 136 9280, levendomebeirut.com) is no less plush, and is big on little details. Your bed, for example, comes with a pillow embroidered with your initals. Hayete (hayeteguesthouse.com) is a reliable, cosy B&B in the historic city centre.

Where to eat and drink

You’ll find Lebanese fare unlike anywhere else at Tawlet (soukeltayeb.com), a buffet restaurant in which, each day, a different local woman prepares what she typically would at home. Everything, from hummous to knefe (melted cheese topped with rosewater-drizzled cake) is excellent; there’s a good selection of Lebanese wines. The owners also run a farmers’ market, Souk el Tayeb. Abdel Al Wahab (00 961 120 0550) is a good bet if you’re after traditional, refined Lebanese. Momo (00 961 199 9767, momoresto.com), stylish sister venue to the London eatery, is located in the Souk and serves Lebanese-European dishes and cocktails. You need to spend at least one meal staring across the blue expanse of the Med, so head to Zaitunay Bay, a clutch of harbourside restaurants. For the same view – on steroids – opt for Sydney’s on the top floor of Le Vendôme. If there’s one thing that’s universally loved in Beirut, it’s a party. Gemmayze is known for its pubs, but in summer locals flock to rooftop terraces; Skybar (00 961 393 9191, skybar.com) is packed out all night long.

Time running out?

Hire a guide to take you to the breathtaking limestone caves of Jeita Grotto (20 minutes from the city centre).

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Lebanese pound, but American dollars are accepted everywhere. Beirut is two hours ahead of GMT and is a four and a half hour flight from London.

Getting There

British Airways (ba.com) flies to Beirut from London Heathrow.
Emirates (emirates.com) flies to Beirut from London Heathrow.

Resources

Lebanon Ministry of Tourism (mot.gov.lb) has listings information on upcoming events, and answers FAQs.