Why go?

Belgrade is undeniably cool. Smartly dressed model-types chatter over glasses of Serbian wine in funky fusion restaurants while musicians and designers nurse beers in hip underground bars. Around every corner you find a new layer of history, from Roman ruins to Turkish mosques, all jostling with a dynamic arts scene. Belgrade is named the ‘White City’ because of the colour of its buildings, and it’s easy to see why locals now proudly refer to it as the New York of Eastern Europe. Scratch the surface and you’ll find lots to discover – at any time of day or night.

What to do

Start your day the way every Belgrader does – with a thick Turkish coffee (a legacy of various Turkish occupations between 1521 and 1815) taken in one of the cafés lining the pedestrianised steets. Amble up to the fortress ruins, perched at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers in the bounds of Kalemegdan Park; everyone from the Celts to the Ottomans has occupied this strategic area. Sellers hawking lace, copperwear and knitwear line the walkways and the tiny Rose Church of Our Lady, covered in ivy, is a gem – the chandeliers are made from old bullet shells and swords. The interior of the city’s cathedral is a patchwork of detailed murals and the rest of the eclectic architecture can be enjoyed by wandering through the city’s squares and parks – you’ll find a hodgepodge of Balkan, Secessionist, socialist-era and modern buildings. Take a taxi (they’re very inexpensive) to the House of Flowers, Tito’s mausoleum, located in his former grounds; the museum showcases gifts received from foreign dignitaries. Nearby, not far from the expanse of Topcˇ ider Park, the Royal Compound runs guided tours between April and October. The palaces are filled with art treasures and the Kremlin-inspired basement of the Old Court is extraordinary, with brightly coloured ceilings and ornate frescoes. Watch the sun sink down from a restaurant on the Danube river in New Belgrade (the city west of the Sava), and warm up with a cherry or plum rakija in an underground bar.

Where to stay

Tucked between the shops on pedestrian street Knez Mihajlova, Beograd Art Hotel (00 381 11 331 2000, belgradearthotel.com) is sleek, modern and has a spa, coffee shop and wine bar. The grand old Hotel Moscow (00 381 11 364 2069, hotelmoskva.rs) has stood on Terazije since 1908 – the likes of Alfred Hitchcock, Albert Einstein and Jean-Paul Sartre have graced its elegant rooms.

Where to eat and drink

Street food is an art in Belgrade. What with the ubiquitous popcorn stalls, burek sellers, ice cream stands and markets offering seasonal fruit, vegetables and cheeses, it’s hard to go hungry. The city’s oldest existing inn – simply known as ‘?’ – is next to the cathedral; the odd name is a result of an unresolved debate on what to call it. Pull up a low wooden stool and feast on enormous platters (Serbian portions are generous) of grilled pork, goulash, or shopska salad, made with fresh cucumber, onion, tomato and white cheese. Finish with a thick, sticky wedge of walnut baklava or crunchy walnut cake. Sample other traditional dishes – with an aquatic slant – at charming Saran (saran.co.rs) on the Danube’s edge in New Belgrade. Locally landed perch is smothered in a cheesy sauce and baked with pasta; wash it down with an aromatic local white wine. Quirky fusion restaurants abound – try Lorenzo & Kakalamba (lorenzokakalamba.com), a Serbian/Italian spot with a bizarre interior consisting of Venetian chandeliers, stuffed sheep and modern art, for beef dishes and honey-soaked desserts. Supermarket (supermarket.rs) is a concept shop, café and spa offering a break from meat-heavy cuisine – there’s freshly pressed juice and coconut sundaes. World Traveller’s Club (00 381 11 324 2303) is a well-trodden underground bar – it was set up as a secret drinking hole during the Miloševic´ era and is now a hub for artists and intellectuals.

Time running out?

Spot rare birds on Great War Island, a protected wildlife space at the rivers’ confluence, accessible only by boat.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the dinar (RSD). Belgrade is one hour ahead of GMT and a two and a half-hour flight from London.

Getting There

Air Serbia (airserbia.com ) The national carrier flies regularly to Serbia’s capital from London Heathrow.
Wizz Air (wizzair.com) flies to Belgrade from London Luton.

Resources

National Tourism Organization of Serbia (serbia.travel) is a helpful resource, with details on Belgrade and other destinations.