Why go?

In a country of chocolate-box villages and jaw-dropping scenery, Bern is a fitting capital. Sure, it might not be anywhere near Switzerland’s biggest or busiest city but the blend of pleasant aesthetics and modern convenience is nothing if not Swiss. Snow covered Alps provide an epic backdrop to this medieval hub – now hardly bigger than a sleepy town by most measures – and the city landscape is cast in 15th-century sandstone buildings and Renaissance fountains. The relaxed, German-speaking Bernese are gracious hosts, and their annual Christmas market transforms this loveliest of European capitals into a fairy-tale setting.

What to do

The Aare river winds like a jewelled collar around Bern’s UNESCO-recognised Old City. Feast on a backdrop of cobbled streets lined with handsome buildings as you stroll through six kilometres of arcades, one of the longest covered shopping promenades in Europe. Near Waisenhausplatz, the 800-year-old landmark Clock Tower features revolving figures that dance each hour; the 16th-century mechanism is still in use and needs to be wound by hand each day. Pop into nearby Einstein House (einsteinbern.ch) to see where the famous scientist had his epiphany in 1905. There is more detailed information for science enthusiasts at the Einstein Museum, part of the Bern Historical Museum (bhm.ch) but lovers of architecture are better served at the central Münster (cathedral), with front-facing Gothic ornamentation that remarkably survived the purging that happened during the Reformation. Then gather your breath and prepare to scale the 101-metre-high tower for a view of the historic district and the Aare; look west and you’ll see the neo-renaissance Dome of the Federal Palace. The seat of the Swiss House of Parliament is, in fact, hard to miss even from the ground, and is well worth a guided tour. Head east, crossing the Aare, to visit the new Tierpark-Bern (tierparkbern.ch). The tradition of keeping live bears – Bern’s mascots – in the city centre reputedly goes back 500 years. Switzerland’s most prolific artist is celebrated at the Zentrum Paul Klee, a short bus ride from the park (zpk.org), with the world’s most comprehensive collection of Klee’s work.

Where to stay

The boutique Hotel Belle Époque (00 41 31 311 43 36, belleepoque.ch) is cluttered with mismatched antiques; its bohemian bedrooms are a little faded, but its prime location near the Bear Park and its popular restaurant makes it a top choice. If you’d rather sleep next to the stars – and politicians – book into Bellevue Palace (00 41 31 320 45 45, bellevuepalace.ch), the city’s swanky, recently renovated five-star hotel near the parliament buildings.

Where to eat and drink

Love or hate the cliché, it would be almost criminal to visit Switzerland – especially in winter – without feasting on a glossy cheese fondue. Try staunchly traditional Restaurant Kloetzlikeller (00 41 31 311 74 56, kloetzlikeller.ch), tucked in a cellar beneath the arcades where you can plunge cubes of plump white bread into their moitié-moitié, a wine-rich half-and-half blend of melted Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois. Somewhat lighter fare is found at Mediterranean-inspired Meridiano (00 41 31 339 52 45, kursaalbern.ch), located on the top floor of the sleek Hotel Allegro. City views are good, and chef Markus Arnold’s cuisine is rated amongst Bern’s best – expect fresh soups, salads and hot dishes such as pork sausages with cheesy polenta. Elsewhere, feast on Italian and Swiss specialities in the late-Baroque elegance of Kornhauskeller (00 41 31 327 72 72, kornhauskeller.ch), a cavernous former granary. Striking Münger frescoes grace the ceilings, and it is a prime place to enjoy a selection of fine Swiss wines.

Time running out?

Visit Läderach at Spitalgasse 2 (00 41 31 311 04 25) to stock up on creamy Swiss milk chocolate.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Swiss franc. Bern is one hour ahead of GMT and London to Bern (via Zurich) takes around three hours.

Getting There

Swiss (0845 601 0956, swiss.com) flies daily to Zurich from Heathrow, London City, Birmingham and Manchester.
EasyJet (easyjet.com) operates flights to Zurich from London Gatwick, Luton and Manchester.

Resources

Bern Tourism in the central railway station (00 41 31 328 12 12, bern.com) and Switzerland Tourism (0800 100 200 30, myswitzerland.com) provide practical information on visiting.