Why go?

Often overshadowed by neighbours Vienna and Budapest, Bratislava may be modest in size, but certainly not in stature. Romantic ruins, colourful Baroque buildings and a proud populace hint to just how important this city has been to European history – after all, it is at the most prominent place on the Danube River, where the Carpathian Mountains meet the Alps. In December there’s a chill winter nip in the air, but a stroll around the 100 or so stalls that form the Christmas Market is sure to warm you up.

What to do

Towering on a hill above the Danube, with unbeatable views over the city, landmark Bratislava Castle is a hotchpotch of architectural styles, from its 11th-century foundations to the Queen Maria Theresia’s 18th-century alterations. A fire destroyed much of the castle in 1811, but it has been sympathetically restored and now contains the Slovak National Museum (snm.sk). Head downhill to the Old Town and to Michael’s Gate, the last standing tower of a quartet that once guarded the city; there is a modest Museum of Arms inside. Nearby you’ll find what is supposedly the narrowest house in Europe, at only 130cm wide. Explore the twisting side streets, which are framed with archways, and crammed with shops and cafés fronting elaborate pastel-hued facades. Don’t miss the fantastic wall painting on the side of the house on Biela Street – it leads you to the Main Square, which is the centre of the city’s elegant architecture. Embassies stand in dignified grandeur; to the left you’ll find the Primatial Palace (its striking pink exterior may be the attention-grabber, but inside there is a good collection of English tapestries). Mirbach Palace boasts an impressive interior – soak it up as you peruse its collection of Baroque paintings and sculptures. For the largest, most focused collection of artwork in the city, visit the Slovak National Gallery (sng.sk). Head for the fountains at Hviezdoslav Square and to the Slovak National Theatre (snd.sk): during Christmas you can catch a performance of The Nutcracker here. Meander through the city’s newer districts, where you’ll see socialist-era architecture and the Secessionist St Elisabeth’s Church. Stroll by the river, crossing Apollo Bridge – a symbol of Bratislava’s ambitions for a modern future, it’s a fitting way to wrap up your tour.

Where to stay

Five-star Hotel Kempinski (00 421 2 3223 8222, kempinski.com) is a 10-minute walk from the Old Town and has a spa overlooking the Danube on its top floor; there is also an Asian-Slovak fusion restaurant. With a prime location by the Presidential Palace, Hotel Tatra (00 421 2 5927 2123, hoteltatra.sk) has basic, well-kept rooms. A hotel has occupied the spot of the Radisson Blu Carlton (00 421 2 5939 0000, radissonblu.com) since 1837; the building maintains a 19th-century elegance.

Where to eat and drink

For a small city, diversity certainly isn’t lacking: modest places to eat sit comfortably next to extravagant restaurants. Slovak dishes are hearty and filling, perfect for winter – think dumplings, soups and heavy sauces. Visit a traditional Pressburg restaurant, which mixes Slovak, German, Jewish and Hungarian culinary traditions, and try bryndzové halušky, (potato dumplings with cheese and bacon), roast goose, duck, or suckling pig. Prešburg (00 421 2 5443 8455) is a local favourite. Take in the view 85m above the city at UFO (00 421 2 6252 0300, u-f-o.sk), where you can dine on antelope tenderloin. Sample sea bream, pike perch, veal cheeks or home-made pastas at Flowers Restaurant (00 421 2 2092 2733): it also has a collection of Slovak art. As with every Slovakian meal, round yours off with a glass of potent fruit vodka.

Time running out?

The Christmas market takes place in Main Square; sample traditional dishes including cigánska pecienka (roast pork in a bun with onion and mustard), lokše (potato crepes stuffed with goose fat, poppy seed or cabbage), mulled wine and hriatô (warm plum brandy topped with fried fat).

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Bratislava is an hour ahead of GMT and a two-hour, 10-minute flight from London.

Getting There

Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies direct from Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh, Liverpool, London Luton and London Stansted.

BMI (flybmi.com) operates daily flights from various airports to neighbouring Vienna, which is a 20-minute drive from Bratislava.

Resources

Bratislava Tourist Office (bratislavaguide.com) and

Enjoy Slovakia (enjoyslovakia.com) are good sources of general city information and details on the Christmas market.