Why go?

Sydney has the iconic architecture; Melbourne’s the city of culture and cool. So where does that leave Brisbane, Australia’s third-biggest city? Most tourists touching down here are zooming off to the Gold Coast’s beaches, but a revolution has been taking place in the city itself in recent years. It now offers a perfectly chilled-out break, whether your bag is museums, food, the great outdoors or a vibrant arts scene. And did we mention koalas?

What to do

The Brisbane River snakes through the centre like a lifeline, crossed by an impressive 16 major bridges. Story Bridge, which connects the buzzing bar district and Chinatown area Fortitude Valley to the verdant Kangaroo Point, is the most famous. You can cross it, sure – but for a special experience, scale it during the day for panoramic views from the top, sbac.net.au, or catch a glimpse of its colour-changing lights at night.

Another wonderful view is available from the water: go on a kayaking tour with Riverlife, 00 61 7 3891 5766, , departing from Kangaroo Point, and you’ll not only cool off from the Brisbane heat riverlife.com.au but also see the city from a totally different perspective. Across the river to the west, you’ll find shopping lanes, the city hall and some of Brisbane’s most notable landmarks and historic buildings – sign up for a free Brisbane Greeters Tour, visitbrisbane.com.au, and they’ll show you the lot, including some street art with interesting backstories.

The botanical gardens, spilling over with all sorts of exotic-looking flora, occupy the city’s southern tip, the original Brisbane settlement and penal colony where prisoners once farmed the land. Cross the pedestrian Goodwill Bridge to the southwest and you’ll find yourself on the South Bank, which was home to the World Expo in 1988 and has a cosmopolitan feel, with lots of restaurants and even a city beach. Head up the river and you’ll hit the Queensland Museum and Sciencentre, qm.qld.gov.au, and the excellent Gallery of Modern Art, qagoma.qld.gov.au, which houses a world-class collection of works from Australian and international modern artists.

Where to stay

Just outside the hustle and bustle of the heart of Fortitude Valley – but close enough to still feel involved – the Emporium Hotel, 00 61 7 3253 6999, www.emporiumhotels.com.au, is a stylish spot with a rooftop pool that overlooks the city. There’s a bar but no restaurant, so breakfast is served in your room; there is also a washer-dryer in most rooms. Spicers Balfour in leafy New Farm, 00 61 1300 597 540, www.spicersretreats.com, has the feeling of a grand old colonial hotel. Rooms are polished and comfy, there’s a rooftop honesty bar with spectacular views across to Story Bridge, and the breakfast is modern and delicious – think sourdough toast with grilled halloumi and asparagus, homemade sweet chilli relish, avocado and greens.

Where to eat and drink

If you were to eat just one meal in Brisbane, you have to visit Urbane Restaurant, 00 61 7 3229 2271, urbanerestaurant.com, in the Central Business District, where young Argentinean chef Alejandro Cancino produces sublime international cuisine with Queensland ingredients. Stokehouse Q, 00 61 7 3020 0600, stokehouseq.com.au, is another excellent option at the south side of Goodwill Bridge.

Spend a leisurely lunch watching the boats pass by while tucking into Moreton Bay ‘bugs’ (lobster) with braised leek, hand-rolled macaroni and shellfish butter, or Tasmanian wakame-battered ling. If you’re in the Fortitude Valley area, Harajuku Gyoza, 00 61 3852 4624, harajukugyoza.com, is a fun place to stop for a snack, while at the weekend brunch is essential, so head to the West End’s Gunshop Café, 00 61 7 3844 2241, thegunshopcafe.com

Time running out?

You can’t leave without getting your picture taken with a koala. Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, koala.net, has been home to the cute marsupials since 1927, and also has kangaroos, wallabies, platypuses and Tasmanian devils.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Australian dollar. Brisbane is ten hours ahead of GMT. Travel time is about 21.5 hours from London. Cost to carbon-offset is £40.72, visit www.climatecare.org

Getting There

Qantas operates daily flights from London Heathrow to Brisbane via Sydney, www.qantas.com.au
Cathay Pacific flies via Hong Kong, www.cathaypacific.com

Resources

Tourism and Events Queensland For more information about Brisbane, visit the official website for the region, www.experiencequeensland.com, which is a superb resource.