Why go?

An alternative weekend break in more ways than one, Budapest is a bohemian box of tricks. While by day its bakeries, church squares and snaking, tram-ruled boulevards buzz with a wholesome family-friendly vibe, by night its narrow side-streets bask in the neon glow of arty bars and all-night coffee shops.

What to do

Split down the middle by the Danube river, Budapest is literally a city of two halves. While Pest lies low and flat along the east side, Buda rises up in a range of densely forested hills to the west. Start your trip with a lung-busting ascent to the Unesco World Heritage-listed ramparts of Buda Castle, where the views of Parliament and the city beyond will instantly reward you. It’s also the site of numerous museums, such as the Hungarian National Gallery and Budapest History Museum (budacastlebudapest.com). Taking the bus back down the hill, hop off at Erzsebet Square, the largest green space in the city centre and a pleasant enough spot to soak up a splash of local colour. Head along on a Sunday for the monthly Wamp design fair, organised to showcase the city’s rising stars in everything from food to fashion, art to interiors (wamp.hu). As far as markets go though, the Great Market Hall is the real deal. Built in 1897 on a typically over-the-top scale, its steel columns, tiled roof and large windows that flood the space with light will transport you back to an industrial age. In the basement you’ll find a netherworld of fresh meat and fish, as well as pickled versions of almost any vegetable you can imagine (budapestmarkethall.com). If you’ve still got a wad of forints to spend, pop around the corner to Vaci Utca, the city’s principle shopping street.

Where to stay

A morning stroll away from the river and the awesome sight of the Hungarian Parliament, is the aptly named Hotel Parlament (00 36 1 374 6000, parlamenthotel.hu). Compared with some of the behemoth hotels in the city, it is on the smaller end of the scale and all the better for it. Floor-to-ceiling windows make rooms feel light and airy, while the low-key location – tucked away down a narrow side street – mutes the city’s nighttime soundscape. Breakfast is fresh and informal, and best taken after an early steaming in the Swedish sauna downstairs. For a scaled-up option with 272 rooms, the Continental Hotel Budapest is located in central Pest around the corner from the weird and wonderful bar Szimpla Kert. Its art deco-styled central lobby and mezzanine-level gallery café chime with the tinkle of well-mannered silverware, while its fitness centre and Araz restaurant are both top spec (00 36 1 815 1070, continentalhotelbudapest.com).

Where to eat and drink

The Buda branch of Bock Bisztro may be a little harder to reach than its Pest counterpart, but its out-of-town cosiness offers a breather from the rattle and roll of the city centre. Streamlined versions of Hungarian classics, like the silky yet deceptively fiery goulash, or braised ox cheek with onion and sautéed pig’s ear, deliver foremost on flavour but aren’t lacking in style either (00 36 1 376 6044, bockbisztro.hu). Back across the river, the Wine Kitchen is the city’s third and most recent entrant to the Michelin club. Proudly inked with a tattoo of the coveted red star, head chef Akos Sarkozi explains that dishes such as saffron cabbage soup with smoked knuckle of pork, and confit duck leg with pressed liver and basil baby carrot, stem from creating classic bistro dishes with ingredients found close to home. The atmosphere is refreshingly unfussy, and the mighty wine list gives justification to the name (00 36 1 266 0835, borkonyha.hu). For something more casual, head to hip downtown and Spiler Bistro Pub, where Hungarian-style sourdough pizzas (try blue cheese and baby spinach) are guzzled down with bottles of micro-brewed beer (00 36 1 878 1320, spilerbp.hu). Szimpla Kert (00 36 20 261 8669, szimpla.hu) is a ‘ruin’ pub, a style found across the city, with a grungy interior, food market and bohemian vibe.

Time running out?

food and travel.com

Take a soak at the Szechenyi Bath and Spa, one of the best thermal hangouts in the city (szechenyibath.com).

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the forint. Budapest is one hour ahead of the UK. Travel time is about 2.5 hours. Cost to carbon offset is £2.52 (climatecare.org).

Getting There

Wizz (wizzair.com) flies daily from London Luton to Budapest.
British Airways (ba.com) flies daily from London Heathrow to Budapest.

Resources

Hungarian Tourism (gotohungary.com) is the official tourist office of Hungary with a wealth of tips and advice.