Why go?

Think ‘Casablanca’ and it’s hard not to picture Humphrey Bogart in a white tuxedo, smouldering cigarette in hand; cocktail martinis being shaken at the bar, and Sam tickling the ivories. Casablanca may well be the most famous Hollywood flick of all time, but the city that shares its name is so much more. An art deco gem par excellence, set on Morocco’s Atlantic shore, it’s a kaleidoscope of colour and culture quite unlike anywhere else.

What to do

Casablanca is the heaving, uproarious, extravagant heart of commercial Morocco, and is chock-full of raw wonder. Start off in search of the French legacy. Wander through the art deco heart of the old town, taking in Boulevard Mohammed V on foot. Trawl through the backstreets there and around the magnificent French-built Marché Central. See the old medina – entering through the grand Marrakech Gate. Then check out the Hassan II Mosque. After that, visit the old French catholic cemetery, a stone’s throw away. It’s astonishingly beautiful and puts the city’s history into sharp perspective. Once you’ve soaked up the history, go shopping in the Habous Quarter – there are better bargains to be had in its lanes than in all of Marrakech. At sunset, take a leisurely stroll down palm-fringed, seafront Corniche.

Where to stay

Most of Casablanca’s hotels cater either to high-end business executives, with offerings such as the Hyatt Regency (00 212 5 22 43 1234, hyatt.com) on Place des Nations Unies; or to the less well-heeled traveller, via the inimitable Hotel Suisse (00 212 5 22 36 02 02, hotelsuissecasablanca.com). In recent years, the Sofitel (00 212 522 456200, sofitel.com) has opened its doors, offering five-star comfort. Crème de la crème on the boutique hotel scene is Hotel Le Doge (00 212 5 22 46 78 00, hotelledoge.com). Set in a fine art deco villa, it has been painstakingly restored, and is the kind of place you feel like keeping secret because it’s so very perfect. The dining room conjures gastronomic delights, and suites are themed around names like Coco Chanel and Charlie Chaplin.

Where to eat and drink

Much quieter among Western tourists, Casablanca is a bit of a hidden gem, and restaurants cater for repeat business rather than an endless stream of strangers. A personal favourite is Relais de Paris (00 212 5 22 39 25 10), especially its magret de canard, which is beyond sublime. A brasserie with extremely competent French cuisine, Relais is known for fresh seafood, an extensive French wine list, and for a lively atmosphere. Another excellent dining spot is La Terrazza (00 212 5 22 798025) on the Corniche. Especially fun for a long lazy weekend lunch, it’s set down at the water’s edge – the Atlantic waves crashing in over the rocks. A very popular place for lunch is La Sqala (00 212 5 22 26 09 60), set in a former Portuguese fortress just beyond the old medina. The tagines are exceptional, as is the pastilla and the fresh juices – and the garden atmosphere is a fragment of paradise. For a completely different but authentic Casablanca experience, check out La Taverne du Dauphin (00 212 5 22 22 12 00, www.tavernedudauphin.com). On a rather tired old street near to the port, it’s probably the most celebrated restaurant in town, and one where you’ll find millionaires mixing with the middle class. Ask for whatever’s fresh, and the waiter will amble over to your table with a great basket of just-caught fish. Another equally local experience is to take lunch in the Marché Central. A throwback to times past, you go into the fish market first, buy whatever you like – from lobsters to monkfish – and take it to one of the little cafés for them to cook it for you.

Time running out?

Root through one of Casablanca’s incredible ‘junkyards’. Especially good is Soco de Moina in Hay Hasseni. A labyrinth of stalls and little shops sell a miscellany of mostly art deco antiques – from marble busts and dinner canteens to grand pianos.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Moroccan dirham. There is no time offset with GMT. Flight time is 3 hours 15 minutes.

Getting There

Royal Air Maroc (royalairmaroc.com) flies direct to Casablanca from London Heathrow daily.
Air Arabia (airarabia.com) flies direct to Casablanca from London Gatwick on Saturdays and Tuesdays.

Resources

The Moroccan National Tourist Office (visitmorocco.com) has a useful website for exploring Casablanca and further afield.