Why go?

Jutting out into the Atlantic, Cádiz is Spain’s westernmost city, a sea-sprayed Andalusian port of ice-cream-hued facades. Encircled by walls and bastions, the old quarter, Casco Antiguo, is crammed with narrow streets, palm tree-dotted plazas, baroque mansions, quirky bars, artisan workshops and archaeological curiosities. To fully understand the configuration, climb to the rooftop of the Torre Tavira (don’t miss the camera obscura), an 18th-century beauty.

After a low period, Cádiz the high-speed AVE train from Madrid via Seville, upgraded road access thanks to a spectacular bridge from the mainland (one of the highest in the world), the booming resorts of Costa de la Luz and, not least, by its meteoric reputation for seafood – because everything here is bound to the ocean. An alluring strip of white-sand beach lines the isthmus, vying with popular Playa de La Caleta on the western side of Casco Antiguo, considered the spot for soaking up rays and admiring riotous sunsets.

The high point of the year comes in February when the exuberant, 11-day Carnival sees hordes of costumed gaditanos spill on to the streets to eat, drink, play music and party. But all year round, visitors can devour exquisite seafood and sip local wines – sherry included – or simply catch the salty Atlantic breeze along a seaside promenade.

What to do

Some 3,000 years of history make it the oldest inhabited city in the Western world, founded by the ship-building Phoenicians as Gadir and later settled by Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths and Arabs. Scratch the surface foundations of millennia-old dwellings, even a 2,800-year old skeleton of a cat. The Museo de Cádiz houses intriguing artefacts from an immaculate pair of 5th-century BC marble sarcophagi to Phoenician jewellery discovered just a few years ago, while a Roman theatre is visible beside the tiled domes of the cathedral. In 1493, it was the departure point for Spain’s voyages of discovery, starting with Columbus’s second journey to the Americas. The city’s maritime prowess continued into the 18th century, generating immense wealth and resulting in a unique architectural style: baroque townhouses topped by watchtowers (134 of them survive) – all the better for merchants to spot returning galleons laden with New World riches.

Where to stay

Scooping top prize for ocean views, the sharply modern Parador, an easy walk to the centre and beach, offers sunsets, a spa, spacious rooms and stunning infinity pool. paradores.es

In contrast, Hotel Casa de las Cuatro Torres, notable for its four iconic watchtowers, spirits you back to the 18th century, though it was completely restored in 2015. Exposed brick walls, lofty ceilings and plush furnishings contribute to this uniquely cultural setting close to the port. casadelascuatrotorres.com

Converted 17th-century convent Hotel Boutique Convento is centrally located near the train station and offers comfortable, simply furnished rooms and a beautiful patio. hotelconventocadiz.com

Close to bars and restaurants in the historic centre, the 18th-century, adults-only Palacete de la Alameda has a roof terrace and compact, well-appointed rooms. palacetedelaalameda.com

In the south of the centre, adults can also enjoy the ultra-hip Hotel Olom, with a small rooftop pool facing the cathedral and a local-produce-fed restaurant
with garden. hotelolom.com

Where to eat and drink

Fish and crustaceans are the backbone of Cádiz gastronomy, visible in their glistening natural state at Mercado Central de Abastos, Spain’s oldest covered market. Surrounding the cavernous market hall are dozens of stands for grazing on diverse tapas, grabbing a beer or a Manzanilla, or shopping for provincial specialities like Payoyo goats’ cheese. mercadocentralcadiz.com

Nearby, in the buzzy Barrio de la Viña, elegant family restaurant El Faro de Cádiz is the place for flawless fish, rice and seafood, whether dining at the tapas bar or in the more genteel restaurant. Don’t miss exquisite tortillitas de camarones – crunchy prawn fritters like abstract lace. elfarodecadiz.com

Countless lively tapas bars are spearheaded by legendary Fifties Taberna Casa Manteca. Plastered with matador memorabilia, it serves charcuterie like chicharrones (pork belly) on squares of waxed paper to accompany a chilled caña (glass of beer) or sherry. 00 34 956 213603

La Candela in Calle Feduchy is a quirky little restaurant offering inventive, affordable tapas with excellent wines by the glass. After, dive into Heladeria El Limonero on Plaza Candelariafor deliciously obscure ice-cream flavours. 00 34 651 704884, lacandelatapasbar.com

This article was taken from the March 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

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